Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
